Safety when sport climbing

Here are a couple of useful posts on UKC to think about.

The first one is a video of a nasty fall where the leader had his foot behind the rope, causing him to invert when falling and a fairly harsh belay causing him to slam into the wall upside down.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69790

A chap at the cuttings in Portland decked out the other day, when his belayer gave him to much slack. He’d leant back to be lowered off and his belayer thought he’d said slack and given him slack and let go of the rope.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=619337

There’s lots of good sensible comments on both, but to roughly sum up (and yes, I know we all know this and I’m teaching lots of folk to suck eggs here, but still):

– Where possible make sure the rope doesn’t run behind your legs
– Wear a helmet!
– If belaying, try and give a ‘soft’ catch (obvious caveat, if a soft catch means they slam into a ledge, feel free to be harsh), i.e. don’t have a very taut rope and go with the momentum of the fall. If you’re not sure how to give a ‘soft’ catch, practise in a safe environment.
– When at the top of a route, make sure you know what your belayer is doing (for leaders)
– When the leader is at the top of a route, make sure you keep them on belay all the time, especially when they’re threading a route. If they ask for slack, give them a bit and then lock off the plate.

Finally, the following article is also worth a read – http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4727

June 2014

Year start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month start grades:

  • Bouldering – V3 (Sent)
  • Sport – 6b+ (RP) 6a+ (OS)
  • Trad – HVS (OS)

Month end grades:

  • Bouldering – V3 (Sent)
  • Sport – 6b+ (RP) 6a+ (OS)
  • Trad – HVS (OS)

Weight end – 11st 9lbs

Core sessions – 0

Fingerboard sessions – 1

Indoor Climbing sessions – 0

Outdoor climbing sessions – 6

Bouldering grade the same.  Sport grade the same.  Trad grade the same.

Weight start – 11st 9lbs

As you can kinda see it was June when I sort of gave up on this.  I had managed to get my weight down to quite a nice low point.  However once I got it there (briefly) I slacked off on the diet front, so it was only ever 11st 10lbs for a few weeks, before bouncing back up to 12st very quickly.  Since then I would say that my grades have not changed over the last year.  However I’d quite like to restart this as I was finding it useful.  After a fashion.  I could also backfill most of the entries from UKC Fitclub if I felt like it.

 

May

Year start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month start grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6a+
  • Trad – HVS

Month end grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6b
  • Trad – HVS

Bouldering grade the same.  Sport grade up to 6b (red point).  Trad grade the same.

Weight start – 11st 12lbs

Weight end – 11st 9lbs

Core sessions – 0

Fingerboard sessions – 2

Indoor Climbing sessions – 0

Outdoor climbing sessions – 2

Managed to bag a 6bish.  Spent a lot of time digging a big hole in the garden.  Which has helped fitness.  Weight has come down a bit.  Still more to go.  Hopefully I’ll get to 11st 7lbs by the end of June.  Also got an outdoors V0+, which I’d never done either.

April 2014

Year start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month start grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6a+
  • Trad – HVS

Month end grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6a+
  • Trad – HVS

Bouldering grade the same.  Sport grade the same.  Trad grade the same.

Weight start – 12st 1lbs

Weight end – 11st 12lbs

Core sessions – 9

Fingerboard sessions – 4

Indoor Climbing sessions – 1

Outdoor climbing sessions – 3

Crap month really.  Need to get the weight loss going properly.  Also need to actually get two climbing sessions per week.  It’ll come, just got to focus.

Kitchen Fitting

Been a long fun day, finally got round to fitting the worktop today.

So here’s a few pictures.

March 2014 Stats

Year start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month start grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6a+
  • Trad – HVS

Month end grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6a+
  • Trad – HVS

Bouldering grade the same.  Sport grade the same.  Trad grade the same.

Weight start – 12st 2lbs

Weight end – 12st 1lbs

Core sessions – 8

Fingerboard sessions – 0

Indoor Climbing sessions – 4

Outdoor climbing sessions – 2

Elbows are still pretty iffy.  Weight has fluctuated quite a bit, so overall it’s not down by much.  Which is frustrating.  Need to nail the weight and get the sessions in.  Haven’t been climbing enough.  Haven’t been loosing enough weight.  However I have a new kitchen, so that’s a plus point.

Feb 2014 stats

Year start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month end grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6a+
  • Trad – HVS

Bouldering grade the same.  Sport grade the slight increase.  6b/+ is very close.  Trad grade the same.

Weight start – 12st 5lbs

Weight end – 12st 2lbs

Core sessions – 11

Yoga sessions – 0

Fingerboard sessions – 2

Climbing sessions – 4

Shoulders are now fine.  It was just a heavy few yoga sessions.  Elbows aren’t great.

January 2014 – Month stats

Year start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month end grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Bouldering grade increase from V2 to V3.  Wooo.  Sport grade the same.  Trad grade the same.

Weight start – 12st 8lbs

Weight end – 12st 5lbs

Core sessions – 11

Yoga sessions – 8

Fingerboard sessions – 2

Climbing sessions – 3 (plus two days winter climbing)

Injury wise, elbows are slightly painful and shoulder is a little stiff.  Need to start doing a elbow and shoulder ‘pre-hab’ workout.  Otherwise a good month.