What a daft idea (aka 8a in a year?)

So last year I thought I really ought to get off my arse and try to do something hard.  I sorta did I guess.  I got a bit better at trad and finally got up into HVS, just about.  But there wasn’t much effort there really.  I didn’t focus much on any specific improvement.  I did a load more core exercises and started fingerboarding.  Also I spent quite a bit of time on my running doing a couple of ultras and I did up my house.  The ultras ate into valuable climbing time, so they’re out.  The fingerboarding was a start, but it’s not really very planned out, it’s pretty random.  So that’ll change.  The core exercises simply aren’t enough, I need to put more effort in there.  A couple of years ago I read an article in a mag which had a quote from Stevie Haston, which was:

“Train hard, rest, don’t eat. It’s a power to weight thing. In fact it’s a weight to powerful fingers thing. It’s not rocket science. Laurence went from F6a to F8a+. Any man or woman can climb F8a within a year in my opinion. All they have to do is everything in their power to do that and not get injured.” Stevie Haston on climber.co.uk

Obviously to plenty of climbers, 8a is a fairy tale grade, something that most people will never actually climb.  Being of a rather stupid disposition, this has stuck in my mind.  Now I don’t seriously think that I’ll get to 8a in a year.  However what I do plan to do is focus on improving my climbing as much as possible.

Over the next few more posts I’m going to lay out a slightly more detailed plan, but here’s it in a few simple steps:

  • (re)Start and continue weekly (and daily) yoga
  • Maximise power to weight ratio (i.e. loose a bit of weight)
  • Get technique training and improve technique as I feel it’s a weak spot
  • Improve finger strength with a proper fingerboarding training program
  • Rest (i.e. spend more time chilling with the wife) properly



Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *