January 2014 – Month stats

Year start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month start grades:

  • Bouldering – V2
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Month end grades:

  • Bouldering – V3
  • Sport – 6a
  • Trad – HVS

Bouldering grade increase from V2 to V3.  Wooo.  Sport grade the same.  Trad grade the same.

Weight start – 12st 8lbs

Weight end – 12st 5lbs

Core sessions – 11

Yoga sessions – 8

Fingerboard sessions – 2

Climbing sessions – 3 (plus two days winter climbing)

Injury wise, elbows are slightly painful and shoulder is a little stiff.  Need to start doing a elbow and shoulder ‘pre-hab’ workout.  Otherwise a good month.

Worktop progress

Berns quality workmanship:

The trusty 5 1/2 in action.

All cut up and ready for jointing

Carcass saw

First worktop gluing up.

Underneath of arch

Cairngorms Jan 2014 Lessons learned

Cairngorms in a weekend?  Totally possible.  We left Bridgend at 4pm on Friday and arrived in the ski car park at about 1am.  Sleep for 5 hours and then up at 6am, starting the walk in at 7am.  Up the Fiacaill Ridge, back down the goat track and then a bit more crampon work on the goat track.  We also had a good look at the Goat Track Gully.  The following day we got up at 6am, were at the car park by 7am, then up the route by 12:30, in the corrie by 1pm, at the car by 2pm and home by 11pm or so.

Generally both days went really well.  The avalanche forecast was good.  The weather, while it was a bit windy was reasonable.  Conditions were good, the snow was solid and the gullies were full.  We got up there safely, did two routes and got back home in time.  We definitely could have been faster on the second route.  Which was Goat Track gully.  We did it in two 40 or so meter pitches and one short 15 meter pitch.  All things considered we could have been a lot quicker on that route, but most of that was due to my descision to trail the ropes up the slope to the bottom of the route.

On the first day we went up the Fiacaill ridge.  Joe got pretty cold on the belay.  It was quite exposed to the wind and he got rather cold.  This meant that he struggled with seconding the route.

Lessons learned:

1 – Don’t trail ropes up snow slopes.  It doesn’t work.  The ropes are to heavy and prone to getting tangled.

2 – Belay jackets aren’t optional.

Now for a few photos from the weekend.

Joe at the start of the Fiacaill Ridge:

Blurry selfie for the win:

Joe standing under Aladdins butress.

What a daft idea (aka 8a in a year?)

So last year I thought I really ought to get off my arse and try to do something hard.  I sorta did I guess.  I got a bit better at trad and finally got up into HVS, just about.  But there wasn’t much effort there really.  I didn’t focus much on any specific improvement.  I did a load more core exercises and started fingerboarding.  Also I spent quite a bit of time on my running doing a couple of ultras and I did up my house.  The ultras ate into valuable climbing time, so they’re out.  The fingerboarding was a start, but it’s not really very planned out, it’s pretty random.  So that’ll change.  The core exercises simply aren’t enough, I need to put more effort in there.  A couple of years ago I read an article in a mag which had a quote from Stevie Haston, which was:

“Train hard, rest, don’t eat. It’s a power to weight thing. In fact it’s a weight to powerful fingers thing. It’s not rocket science. Laurence went from F6a to F8a+. Any man or woman can climb F8a within a year in my opinion. All they have to do is everything in their power to do that and not get injured.” Stevie Haston on climber.co.uk

Obviously to plenty of climbers, 8a is a fairy tale grade, something that most people will never actually climb.  Being of a rather stupid disposition, this has stuck in my mind.  Now I don’t seriously think that I’ll get to 8a in a year.  However what I do plan to do is focus on improving my climbing as much as possible.

Over the next few more posts I’m going to lay out a slightly more detailed plan, but here’s it in a few simple steps:

  • (re)Start and continue weekly (and daily) yoga
  • Maximise power to weight ratio (i.e. loose a bit of weight)
  • Get technique training and improve technique as I feel it’s a weak spot
  • Improve finger strength with a proper fingerboarding training program
  • Rest (i.e. spend more time chilling with the wife) properly



Southern Cairngorms Winter Crags

Lochnagar – North East Corrie

Southern Sector – 950m, 1000m,North West facing –

Main Sector – 900m – North East and North West facing

Good mix of routes at most grades

Coire lochan Na Feadaige – 900m – North East facing

Two III and a V

The Stuic & Whacky Butress – 1000m – North East and North West

Good mix of I – V

The Dubh Loch Crags

Spittal of Glenmuick or Glen Clova approach

Creag An Dubh Loch – 730m NE to E

Not loads of winter routes.  Mainly rock routes.

Glen Clova

Winter Corrie – 650m NE

Good mix of routes

Corrie Fee – South Wall – 550 North East

Good mix of routes I – V

Corrie Fee – North Wall – 550 – South East facing

Small handful of routes III to IV

Craig Maud – 600m North East facing

Pinnacle Ridge II

Jaunjorge – 550m South facing

Not many routes at II – V



Northern Cairngorms Winter Crags

Northern Corries

Coire an t-Sneachda


Coire an Lochan


Loch Avon Basin

Stacan Dubha – 850m – North West facing

Carn Etchachan – 900m – North facing


Shelter Stone Crag – 850m – North East facing


Hell’s Lum Crag – 930m – East facing

Stag Rocks – 900m – South facing

Stac an Fharaidh – 900m – South East


Northern Lairig Ghru

Lurchers Crag – 780m West South West

Good selection of I – IV

Sron na Lairige – 850m East North East

I – IV

Sgoran Dubh Mor

Selection of butresses around 700-750m, mostly East, East South East.

Sgor Gaoith

Mix of butresses 750 – 850m mostly facing East South East.

Coire Garbhlach

Lower buttress 650m and Upper butress 750m


An Garbh Choire

Corrie of the Chokestone 1100m, North facing

Good mix of I – III/IV

Garbh Choire Mor – 1130m East


Garbh Choire Dhaidh – 1100m South


Coire Bhrochain – 1150m South

Good mix to I – IV

Northern Corries of Braeriach

Coire an Lochain – 1100m North

Southern Lairig Ghru

Beinn Bhrotain

Coire Cath nam Fionn – 950m North West facing

Good mix of I – III

Ben Macdui Massif

Coire Sputan Dearg – 1309 South East

Misc butresses I – IV

Creagan A Choire Etchachan – 850 – 900 East facing

Multiple butresses, lots of routes

Stob Coire Etchachan – 900m South South East


Lochside Crag – 1000m East South East

III and IV

Beinn A Bhuird

Approach from Braemar.

Coire Na Ciche – 1000m East

II to IV

Coire An Dubh Lochain – 950m North East

Mainly I – III and some VI/VII.

Coire Nan Clach – 1100m South facing

Not much

Garbh Choire – 950m North West to North

II to IV/V

Bludgeon – first HVS

So about 4 years after starting climbing and about 3 years after doing my first VS, I got round to getting on a HVS the other day at Pembroke.  I’d done a fair bit of guidebook reading and checking out the comments on UKC and Bludgeon at Stennis Head had a number of positive comments on it.  The route goes up a large groove on the South Side of the crag.  I’m a fan of big grooves, you generally get to do lots of nice bridging moves (for the non climbers, where you stand in a wide position, with one foot on one side of the wall and the other on the other side, it’s a stable position, which doesn’t use much energy).  Joe and I went round to the main face of Stennis Head and Joe led a VDiff, North Corner as the warm up route.  As HVS isn’t a massive physical challenge for me, I decided that the warmup on the VDiff would be enough for me and that we should try and find the route and just get it done.  It was about 1200 by this time.  So we headed round the otherside of Stennis Head looking for the big grassy ramp to get to the base of the climb.  The guidebook mentions some scrambling along sea level ledges to get to the base of the route.

Warning, there will be serious beta on how to do the route from here on in.  So if you want the onsight, click away now!

It all starts off quite easily.  Hop down a few ledges and you’re on your way.  I wasn’t 100% as to where the route was, but thought that 15-20 meters of traversing should see us in the right place.  It was at this point that we saw another team retreating from the ‘scrambling’ or as most people would call it Diff/VDiff traversing.  So out came the ropes and I went about 8 meters over.  So that Joe and I could talk, I bought him down to the belay then.  Bit more disscussion and I set off.  I ended up going upwards to a bit of a dead end and realised that I should be lower.  So I had to downclimb about 4a moves (as I’d started up the bottom of an E1/HVS, depending on which way I’d went) stripping the gear.  Went across and down.  Till I eventually thought ‘maybe this big obvious groove is the route?’.  So I checked the guidebook again and sure enough ‘Bludgeon is the first big groove on the way in’.  After looking at the photo topo I was able to match up the features to the picture and I was basically about 3 meters up the route.  I tried to convince Joe to head down to the very bottom of the route, but he wasn’t having it.  This wasn’t ideal as it would make rope drag worse for me.  But Joe wasn’t keen on moving.  So we sorted out a belay (mental note, take more gear when climbing at Stennis to setup a belay), shared one of Joe’s sandwiches, wished I’d bought some water down with us and I got going.  Pretty committing start to my first HVS really.  Can’t imagine many folk daft enough to do something like that.  Oh well.

I was a little below the traverse on the route, so I headed across and up to that.  First couple of bits of gear in at the start of the traverse and at the end.  Then on good holds for hands and feet up onto the route.  More gear and more steady climbing, till I got to the first crappy hold.  It was a small hold, which wasn’t very positive and a bit polished.  A bit of faffing here, moving around, trying to decide what to do, up and down two or three times.  Eventually I went up on the good hold to my left and the small crap hold.  Feet were pretty good but the good hold was now slightly behind me and under my armpit.  To get a good hold on it I ended up in a pretty awkward position.  Cast out to the right and there were no good holds.  Arse.  Began to get slightly worried.  Tried the left side of the groove.  There was a crack I could get my hand in.  Game on.  At this point my body took over.  I started walking my feet up the good footholds.  Got the other hand above the first hand.  Moved feet again.  Moved the other hand upwards.  Bent legs up, pulled arms and got a bit more height.  Gear well below my feet now.  Not sure how far, but it was probably further than I would have liked.  Reached out to the right to what looked like a jug.  Thank god, it was.  Right foot was good.  Looked left and there was a lovely foot hold on the outside of the corner.  On it.  Now I was in the bridge, I could look for gear.  And there is was, right in my face on the left.  Perfect nut placement.  Leg started shaking a bit, till the gear went in and was clipped.  While I could have waited around there, I thought, well you’ve got to climb it, it’s going well, so move again.  More bridging and good holds and I was under a small bulge/overhang.  Got three nuts and a cam in around here.  Think the nuts went in a bit lower down, two one above the other.  Then one on the right and a cam a bit above the nuts.  Kept on moving up and there was a good hold on the left and a niceish crozzy pocked just over the overhang.  Got a good high left foot and pulled.  Then over right to the big flake on the back of the overhang.  Move feet and get one foot into the wide crack, which was part of the groove.  Then standup, foot on the crozzy pocket and as is always the way, when you’ve got great feet and can standup, no real handholds.  Just some big open handed holds on the left.

Done.  In the bag.  I let out a big yell and a whoop and waved down to Joe.  I think he got that I was happy and I got a well done.  He’d been good at yelling encouragement.  The rope drag had been a bit of a pain.  And the rope management could have been better.  I think the rope had been a bit tight on one or two points as I really had to drag the rope up to clip.  I hadn’t sworn too much and hadn’t really got my arse in a twist as I sometimes do.

After this is was nice easy ledge stepping with one last ‘protect the top-out’ nut.  One loose block to be dodged.  There was a poor hold, loose jug lower down the route, but as there was a jug next to it, it wasn’t a major hardship.  Got up the ledges, built the belay and yelled Joe to come up.  He romped up it, despite saying he couldn’t have led it.

By this point it was 3pm, so we wandered over to get our gear, get the shoes (which we’d left at the start of the traverse), sort out the gear and get back to the car.  Then into Bosherton for a cream tea.